Tortoise care: Russian, sulcata and Hermann's tortoises

Tortoises are the long game of reptile keeping. A small Russian tortoise bought today can still be grazing your backyard decades from now, and a sulcata can grow into a 100-pound-plus animal that needs its own yard. Most pet tortoise problems — soft shells, pyramiding, swollen eyes, respiratory infections — come from incorrect heat, light, humidity or diet. This guide covers the three species Americans most often keep, how to house and feed them, and the wildlife laws you need to know. It is part of our reptile library.

Which tortoise species make good pets?

VCA Animal Hospitals lists sulcata, red-footed, Russian (Horsfield’s), Greek, Hermann’s and leopard tortoises among common pet species.

Species	Adult size (VCA)	Climate preference (VCA)	Best for
Russian (Horsfield’s)	About 10 inches	Warm and dry	Small yards, beginners
Hermann’s	About 10 inches	Warm and dry	Beginners who want a calm grazer
Greek	About 10 inches	Warm and dry	Experienced keepers (some subspecies are delicate)
Sulcata (African spurred)	Nearly 3 feet, about 150 lb	Dry	Owners with a large, warm yard
Red-footed	Medium	Tropical, more humid	Keepers who can maintain humidity

VCA notes sulcatas reach full size at 20–30 years and may live up to 100 years. Hatchling sulcatas are cheap and cute, which is why many end up surrendered to rescues once they outgrow a house. Unless you live somewhere with long, warm, dry summers and can dedicate a fenced yard to one, choose a Russian or Hermann’s tortoise.

How do you set up a tortoise enclosure?

Tortoises are walkers and diggers. Floor space matters far more than height, and glass aquariums are a poor choice because tortoises keep trying to walk through the walls and the air inside overheats or stagnates.

Indoor enclosures

An open-topped “tortoise table” — a wooden box with solid walls — works well for small species. VCA says indoor tortoises need a basking heat lamp and a UV light over the enclosure, with the UV bulb replaced every six months. Provide a hide, a mix of substrate the tortoise can dig in (such as a soil and coconut-coir mix) and a shallow water dish; VCA advises the water should never be higher than the tortoise’s head.

The Merck Veterinary Manual’s reptile housing table gives general guidance useful for setting the lights:

Parameter	Merck general guidance
Temperature (temperate species)	68–95°F across the enclosure
Basking lamp	50–75 watts, at least 18 inches from the basking area
UVB wavelength	290–320 nm
Photoperiod (temperate species)	About 8 hours in winter to 16 hours in summer
Humidity	Species-dependent; below 35% or above 70% may cause problems

Russian and Hermann’s tortoises are temperate-climate animals, so a warm basking spot at one end and a cooler end works well. Ask a reptile veterinarian to confirm targets for your species and age; hatchlings often need slightly more humidity than adults to grow smooth shells.

Outdoor enclosures

In much of the US, small tortoises can live outside for the warm months. VCA says outdoor tortoises get UV light from the sun and need a very secure fence with the bottom buried 6 inches deep, plus a shelter (VCA mentions even a dog crate) for cold or bad weather. Use solid walls the tortoise cannot see through, cover small pens against raccoons, dogs and birds, and offer both sun and shade. Never leave a tortoise in a closed container in direct sun.

What should a tortoise eat?

Russian, Hermann’s, Greek and sulcata tortoises are grazers built for a high-fiber, low-protein diet. VCA recommends feeding mostly leafy greens — such as spring mix, kale, collard or turnip greens and broccoli leaves — plus chemical-free hibiscus flowers and only limited fruit. Outdoors, tortoises can graze pesticide-free grass, but keep them away from toxic shrubs. VCA also mentions a commercial tortoise diet as an option alongside dark leafy greens.

Feed often	Feed sparingly	Avoid
Weeds and greens (dandelion, plantain, endive, collards, turnip greens)	Kale, spring mix	Iceberg lettuce
Grass and hay for sulcatas	Fruit (most species)	Meat, dog or cat food
Hibiscus flowers and leaves	Commercial pellets	Bread, dairy, sugary foods

VCA’s article on tortoise diseases warns that tortoises fed iceberg lettuce, a high-meat diet or a poor commercial diet are most likely to develop vitamin A deficiency. Excess protein is also linked to pyramiding (lumpy shell growth). Provide a calcium supplement as your veterinarian recommends, especially for indoor tortoises.

Soak hatchlings and indoor tortoises in shallow, lukewarm water periodically to help hydration.

What health problems do pet tortoises get?

• Metabolic bone disease — soft or deformed shell, weak legs; usually inadequate UVB or calcium.
• Pyramiding — raised, cone-shaped scutes linked to diet and humidity.
• Vitamin A deficiency — swollen eyelids, nasal discharge.
• Respiratory infection — bubbles at the nose, open-mouth breathing, lethargy; often from being kept too cold.
• Shell injuries — from dogs, falls or lawn mowers.

Schedule a new-pet exam with a reptile veterinarian (the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians directory can help) and yearly checkups. Some species brumate or hibernate in winter; never let a tortoise hibernate without a vet check first, because sick or underweight tortoises may not survive it.

What laws apply to tortoises and box turtles in the US?

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service species profile lists the Mojave desert tortoise (Gopherus agassizii) — all tortoises north and west of the Colorado River in Arizona, Utah, Nevada and California — as threatened under the Endangered Species Act since 1990. USFWS notes they can live roughly 50 to 80 years but take 13 to 20 years to mature, so populations recover slowly. Collecting a wild desert tortoise is illegal. People who want one adopt a captive animal through state-coordinated programs; in Nevada, for example, tortoise adoption runs through a program approved by USFWS, and captive desert tortoises generally may not be sold or released. Check with your state wildlife agency before keeping one.

Native box turtles are also widely protected. Many states limit or prohibit collecting them from the wild, and moving a box turtle away from its home range harms it even where it is legal. If you find one, help it cross the road in the direction it was heading and leave it there.

Buy only captive-bred tortoises from reputable breeders, keep records of where your animal came from and never release a pet tortoise outdoors — it can spread disease to wild populations.

How do you handle tortoises safely?

Lift a tortoise with both hands around the sides of the shell and keep it low. Never drop or flip one. The CDC warns that reptiles, including turtles and tortoises, can carry Salmonella even when healthy. Wash hands with soap and running water after touching the tortoise, its food, water or enclosure, and supervise children. CDC says children under 5 should not handle reptiles or their environments.

Tortoise care checklist

Frequency	Task
Daily	Fresh greens and water, spot-clean, check temperatures
Weekly	Soak (hatchlings and indoor tortoises), weigh, inspect shell and eyes
Every 6 months	Replace indoor UVB bulb
Seasonally	Check outdoor fencing and shelter
Yearly	Veterinary exam, pre-hibernation check if applicable

Common beginner mistakes to avoid

• Buying a hatchling sulcata without space for an adult. Plan for the full-grown animal, not the baby.
• Keeping a tortoise in a glass aquarium. Poor ventilation and transparent walls cause stress.
• Feeding fruit or lettuce as a staple. Grazers need fiber-rich greens and weeds.
• No UVB indoors. A heat lamp alone does not provide UVB; replace UV bulbs on schedule.
• Unsupervised time with dogs. Dog bites and chewing are a common cause of shell injuries.
• Letting a sick tortoise hibernate. Have a veterinarian check weight and health first.

Seasonal tortoise care tips

Spring. As days warm, check your tortoise’s weight and condition after any period of lower activity, and inspect the outdoor enclosure for gaps, loose fencing and toxic plants that grew over winter.

Summer. Outdoor pens need shaded areas and fresh water every day, because a tortoise can overheat in a pen without shade. Watch for predators such as dogs, raccoons and birds.

Fall. Cooler nights and shorter days can reduce appetite. Plan ahead for indoor housing if your climate gets too cold for the species, and do not leave a tortoise outside overnight when temperatures fall.

Winter. Brumation or hibernation should only be attempted with species that do it naturally and after a vet check, because a sick or underweight tortoise may not survive it. If you keep the animal active indoors, maintain proper heat and UVB lighting through the winter months.

In every season, wash your hands after handling the tortoise or anything in its enclosure.

Other reptiles to consider

If a tortoise’s space needs and lifespan feel like too much, compare leopard gecko care for a small insect-eating lizard, bearded dragon care for an interactive daytime lizard, or ball python care for a quiet snake. Backyard keepers who also raise poultry should keep feed and water separate; our backyard chickens for beginners guide covers hygiene basics.