In this article
- Step 1: check the rules
- Step 2: plan the coop and run
- Step 3: choose your chickens
- Step 4: raising chicks
- Step 5: feed and water
- Step 6: health and Salmonella safety
- Daily and weekly chores
- Egg production basics
- Common beginner mistakes
- Budgeting for your first flock
- Choosing breeds: questions to ask
- Introducing new birds to the flock
- Egg handling basics
- First-year plan
Fresh eggs, garden help and entertaining personalities make backyard chickens one of the most popular small-farm projects in the U.S. They are not complicated to keep, but a little planning prevents the usual beginner problems: cramped coops, predators, poor laying and sick birds. This guide walks through everything you need for your first year.
Step 1: check the rules
Before buying a single chick, find out:
- whether chickens are allowed on your property;
- the maximum number of birds;
- whether roosters are banned;
- setback distances for coops from property lines and houses;
- whether you need a permit;
- homeowners’ association rules.
Your city or county code office has the answers. Rules vary widely, even between neighboring towns.
Step 2: plan the coop and run
Oregon State University Extension gives practical coop guidelines:
| Feature | Guideline |
|---|---|
| Coop floor space | At least 3 sq ft per bird with access to a run; 8–10 sq ft per bird without |
| Roosts | 5–10 inches of pole per bird, 1–2 inch lumber with rounded edges |
| Nest boxes | About one for every four birds, with a ramp if needed |
| Ventilation | Remove ammonia, carbon dioxide and moisture, without drafts on birds |
| Cleaning | Doors that open outside; floors that are easy to clean |
| Predator protection | Openings too small for predators |
For plans and materials, see DIY chicken coop; for buying, see best chicken coop for 6 chickens.
Step 3: choose your chickens
| Option | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Day-old chicks | Cheapest, many breeds, birds tame easily | Need a brooder and heat; months until eggs |
| Started pullets | Past the fragile chick stage | Fewer breed choices |
| Laying hens | Eggs right away | Higher cost; unknown history; disease risk if source is poor |
Choose breeds that suit your climate (cold-hardy vs. heat-tolerant), your goals (eggs, meat or both) and your family (calm temperament if children help).
Step 4: raising chicks
Chicks need a brooder: a draft-free container with bedding, a heat source, chick feeder and waterer. University of Illinois Extension’s incubation and embryology guide gives about 85–90°F as the starting brooder temperature, adjusting lamp height as needed. Watch the chicks: huddled under the heat means too cold; spread far from it means too hot. Reduce heat gradually as they feather.
Step 5: feed and water
| Age | Feed |
|---|---|
| Chicks | Chick starter (complete) |
| Growing birds | Grower or starter-grower |
| Laying hens | Complete layer ration |
| All ages | Clean water every day; grit if birds eat whole grains or forage |
Layer feed contains extra calcium for eggshells; it is not suitable for young chicks. Keep treats and kitchen scraps to a small part of the diet and avoid moldy or salty food.
Step 6: health and Salmonella safety
Backyard poultry can carry Salmonella without looking sick. The CDC recommends:
- Wash hands with soap and running water after touching poultry or anything in their area.
- Don’t kiss or snuggle backyard poultry.
- Don’t let children younger than 5 handle chicks, ducklings or other poultry.
- Don’t let backyard poultry inside the house.
- Clean equipment outdoors.
- Cook eggs until both yolk and white are firm.
Biosecurity protects your flock too: limit visitors to the coop, keep wild birds away from feed and water, quarantine new birds, and report sudden deaths or many sick birds to your veterinarian or state animal health officials, especially during avian influenza outbreaks.
Daily and weekly chores
| Frequency | Tasks |
|---|---|
| Daily | Let birds out and lock them in at night; fresh water; check feed; collect eggs; quick health check |
| Weekly | Remove wet bedding and droppings; check for mites and lice; inspect fencing |
| Monthly | Deep clean feeders and waterers; review egg records and feed use |
| Seasonally | Full coop clean-out; check ventilation and insulation; plan for heat or cold |
Egg production basics
Hens typically start laying at several months old, depending on breed. Laying slows with shorter days, molting and age. Keep simple records to spot problems early. Our Chicken Egg Production Tracker logs lay rate, feed per hen and cost per dozen.
Common beginner mistakes
| Mistake | Fix |
|---|---|
| Coop too small | Plan space for your maximum flock size |
| Chicken wire for predator protection | Use hardware cloth and secure doors |
| Poor ventilation | Add high vents without drafts on roosting birds |
| Layer feed for chicks | Use chick starter until laying age |
| Skipping hand washing | Follow CDC hygiene every time |
| Mixing new birds immediately | Quarantine newcomers first |
Budgeting for your first flock
Rather than relying on national averages, list the costs you will actually face and get local prices:
| Item | One-time or ongoing |
|---|---|
| Coop and run (built or bought) | One-time |
| Hardware cloth, latches, fencing | One-time |
| Brooder, heat source, chick feeder and waterer | One-time |
| Adult feeder and waterer | One-time |
| Chicks, pullets or hens | One-time (per batch) |
| Feed (starter, grower, layer) | Ongoing |
| Bedding | Ongoing |
| Grit, oyster shell if needed | Ongoing |
| Veterinary care | Occasional |
| Electricity for lights or heated waterers | Seasonal |
Track feed and egg numbers from the start so you know your true cost per dozen.
Choosing breeds: questions to ask
- Climate: cold-hardy breeds with small combs for cold winters; lighter, heat-tolerant breeds for hot climates.
- Purpose: egg-laying breeds, meat breeds or dual-purpose breeds.
- Temperament: calm breeds are better with children.
- Egg color: brown, white, blue or green eggs depend on the breed.
- Broodiness: some breeds go broody often, which is good if you want hens to hatch chicks and less convenient if you only want eggs.
Introducing new birds to the flock
Adding birds causes pecking-order fights. Quarantine newcomers first, then let the flocks see each other through a fence for some days before mixing. Add several birds at once rather than one, provide extra feeders and waterers, and give hiding places in the run.
Egg handling basics
- Collect eggs at least daily.
- Discard cracked eggs.
- Clean visibly dirty eggs according to recommended practices, or use them for your own household only.
- Refrigerate eggs.
- Cook eggs until yolk and white are firm, as the CDC recommends.
If you plan to sell eggs, check your state’s rules on licensing, grading, labeling and refrigeration.
First-year plan
| Season | Focus |
|---|---|
| Late winter | Check rules, plan and build coop, order chicks |
| Spring | Brood chicks, move to coop when feathered |
| Summer | Shade, water, predator checks; first eggs for early breeds |
| Fall | Molting; prepare coop for winter |
| Winter | Keep coop dry and ventilated; unfrozen water |
Want to hatch your own? Read how to use an egg incubator. Space is tight? Consider raising quail. Our Backyard Coop & Incubation Guide puts space, feed, brooder and incubator numbers in one place. More in the backyard chickens and quail guide.
Guide · $14The Backyard Coop & Incubation Guide
Guide · $14The Backyard Coop & Incubation Guide31-page PDF: coop and run sizing in square feet, incubation calendar, brooder care, biosecurity and printable sheets.Buy now →Frequently asked questions
How many chickens should a beginner start with?
Chickens are social, so most beginners start with a small group of three or more hens, within the limits of local rules. Plan the coop for the number you will actually keep, since flocks tend to grow.
Do I need a rooster to get eggs?
No. Hens lay eggs without a rooster; you only need one if you want fertile eggs for hatching. Many towns ban roosters because of noise.
How much space do backyard chickens need?
Oregon State University Extension suggests at least 3 square feet of coop floor per bird when they have access to a run or outdoor area, and 8 to 10 square feet per bird if they do not.
Can backyard chickens make you sick?
Yes, they can carry Salmonella even when they look healthy. The CDC advises washing hands after touching birds or anything in their area, not kissing or snuggling birds, keeping poultry out of the house and not letting children under 5 handle chicks or other poultry.
What do backyard chickens eat?
A complete commercial ration for their age: chick starter for chicks, grower for young birds and layer feed once hens begin laying. Treats and scraps should be a small part of the diet, and fresh water must always be available.
Do chickens need heat in winter?
Adult chickens in a dry, draft-free, well-ventilated coop generally handle cold well. Moisture and drafts are the bigger problems. Chicks need a heat source in the brooder until they are feathered.
