Leopard gecko care: tank setup, heat, feeding and health

Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are small, hardy lizards from the dry grasslands and rocky scrub of South Asia. They are a classic first reptile because they stay small, do not need a huge enclosure and usually tolerate gentle handling. According to VCA Animal Hospitals, adults reach about 5–10 inches and live 10–15 years with good care. Unlike most geckos, they have movable eyelids and cannot climb glass, which makes their housing simpler. This page is part of our reptile library.

What size tank does a leopard gecko need?

VCA lists a 10-gallon aquarium or similar container, at least 6 inches high, with a screen top as a starting point for one gecko. That is the minimum; a 20-gallon “long” or a front-opening reptile enclosure of similar footprint gives far more room for a proper temperature gradient and enrichment.

Item	Recommendation	Why it matters
Enclosure	10 gallons minimum (VCA); 20-gallon long preferred	Room for warm and cool zones
Lid	Secure screen top	Ventilation, keeps crickets and cats out
Hides	Warm hide, cool hide, humid hide	Security and easier shedding
Water	Shallow dish, changed daily	Geckos drink from standing water
Calcium	Small dish of calcium powder	VCA advises keeping it available at all times

Substrate: what to avoid

VCA warns that coarse sand, corn cob bedding and crushed walnut shells can cause intestinal blockages if swallowed while hunting. Paper towel is ideal for new animals or quarantine because you can see droppings easily; slate tile and reptile carpet are tidy long-term options. VCA also mentions moist material such as sphagnum moss, cypress mulch or vermiculite — the easiest way to use it is inside a humid hide, a covered box the gecko can enter when it is about to shed.

The Merck Veterinary Manual’s owner guide, Providing a Home for a Reptile, adds that hides reduce stress, that waste and uneaten food should be removed regularly and that substrate should be replaced at least monthly.

What temperature should a leopard gecko enclosure be?

VCA says the cage should be in the mid-80s°F (about 30°C), and nighttime temperatures can drop to around 70°F. In practice, keepers aim for the warm end to reach that range at floor level, since leopard geckos absorb heat from warm surfaces as well as from the air, and let the cool end sit noticeably lower.

Zone	Target	Tool
Warm side (floor/hide)	Mid-80s°F (VCA)	Thermostat-controlled heat mat or lamp
Cool side	Room temperature in the 70s°F	Probe thermometer
Night	Down to about 70°F (VCA)	Turn off lamps; mats on thermostat

Always run heat mats and ceramic heaters on a thermostat; an unregulated heat mat can burn a gecko’s belly. VCA cautions against in-tank hot rocks and says to keep the gecko at least 6 inches from any heat light. The Merck Veterinary Manual housing table notes that humidity below 35% or above 70% can cause problems depending on species, which is why a dry main enclosure plus one humid hide works well for this desert-adapted lizard.

Lighting

Leopard geckos are crepuscular — most active at dusk and dawn. A regular day–night cycle matters more than bright light. Many reptile veterinarians now suggest low-output UVB with plenty of shade, while traditional care sheets, including VCA’s, rely on dietary calcium. Discuss with your vet; either way, do not use colored “night” bulbs that keep the enclosure lit around the clock.

What do leopard geckos eat?

Leopard geckos are insectivores. VCA recommends live insects such as commercially raised crickets, with smaller amounts of silkworms, dubia roaches, mealworms, superworms and waxworms. Waxworms and superworms are fatty, so treat them as occasional treats.

Age	How often (VCA)	Typical portion
Juvenile	Every 1–2 days	As many appropriately sized insects as eaten in 10–15 minutes
Adult	2–3 times a week	Several insects, adjusted to body condition

Gut-loading and dusting

VCA advises feeding the insects a high-quality “gut-loading” diet for at least 24 hours before offering them, and lightly dusting insects with phosphorus-free calcium powder before feeding. Keep a shallow dish of calcium powder in the enclosure at all times and provide fresh water changed daily. Ask your vet about adding a reptile multivitamin occasionally.

Remove uneaten crickets after feeding; hungry crickets can nibble a sleeping gecko.

A healthy adult has a thick tail, because leopard geckos store fat there. A thin, pencil-like tail is a warning sign that needs a vet visit.

What health problems do leopard geckos get?

• Metabolic bone disease — rubbery jaw, bent limbs or weakness, linked to too little calcium.
• Stuck shed — retained skin on toes and tail tip can cut off circulation; the humid hide helps.
• Impaction — from loose substrate or too-large insects.
• Parasites — weight loss, runny stools; diagnosed with a fecal test.
• Tail loss — geckos can drop their tail when grabbed. It regrows, but never grab or restrain by the tail.

Find a veterinarian with reptile experience before you need one. The Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) has a member directory. Schedule a new-pet exam and yearly checkups.

How do you handle a leopard gecko and stay safe?

Let a new gecko settle for a week or two, then scoop it gently from below rather than grabbing from above, which mimics a predator. Keep sessions short and low to the ground.

Like other reptiles, leopard geckos can carry Salmonella even when they look healthy. The CDC says to wash hands with soap and running water after touching the gecko, its insects, its water or anything in the enclosure. CDC also advises that children under 5, adults 65 and older and people with weakened immune systems are more likely to get sick, and that children under 5 should not handle reptiles or their environments. Clean equipment outside the kitchen.

Troubleshooting common leopard gecko problems

It will not eat. Check the warm-side floor temperature first; a gecko that cannot warm up properly may refuse food. New geckos, shedding geckos and adults in cooler months may also eat less. Ongoing weight loss or a shrinking tail needs a vet.

Stuck shed on toes or tail tip. Provide a humid hide and check the toes after each shed. Retained shed can cut off circulation, so if it does not come off with humidity, see a vet.

Glass surfing. Pacing against the glass can mean the gecko is stressed, too warm or too cool, or seeing its reflection. Review temperatures and add more cover.

Lethargy and a soft jaw or bent legs. These can be signs of metabolic bone disease, linked to calcium and vitamin D3 problems. Review your supplement routine and get a vet exam.

Dropped tail. Keep the enclosure very clean while it heals and call a vet if the wound looks infected.

Leopard gecko care checklist

Frequency	Task
Daily	Fresh water, spot-clean, check temperatures, refill calcium dish
Feeding days	Gut-loaded, dusted insects; remove leftovers
Weekly	Mist the humid hide’s moss, weigh the gecko
Monthly	Replace substrate and wash hides
Yearly	Veterinary exam and fecal test

How much does a leopard gecko setup cost?

Most of the startup cost goes to the enclosure, a heat mat or lamp, a thermostat, two thermometers, three hides, dishes and the first veterinary exam. Ongoing costs are modest: feeder insects, gut-load food, calcium and vitamin supplements, paper towels or replacement substrate and annual checkups. Because leopard geckos live 10–15 years, the long-term total is driven more by time and insects than by equipment.

Common beginner mistakes to avoid

• No thermostat on the heat mat. This is the most common cause of belly burns.
• Loose sand for a “desert” look. VCA specifically warns that coarse sand can cause blockages.
• Skipping the humid hide. Stuck shed on the toes is easy to prevent and painful to treat.
• Feeding mostly mealworms or waxworms. Variety and gut-loading give better nutrition.
• Housing two males together. VCA notes males are territorial; fights cause injuries and dropped tails.
• Handling during the first days. Give a new gecko time to settle and start eating before regular handling.

How do you tell if a leopard gecko is healthy?

A healthy leopard gecko has clear, bright eyes, a clean vent, a plump tail, complete shed with no stuck skin on the toes, and an alert response when it is awake in the evening. Droppings should be formed, with a white urate portion. Warning signs include a shrinking tail, refusing food for more than a couple of weeks outside of shedding, runny stools, a swollen jaw or limbs, and wheezing. Weigh your gecko monthly on a kitchen scale in grams and keep a simple log; gradual weight loss is often the first clue that something is wrong, long before the gecko looks sick.

How does a leopard gecko compare with other beginner reptiles?

Leopard geckos need less space and simpler lighting than a bearded dragon; see our bearded dragon care guide if you want a larger, daytime lizard. Snake fans can compare with ball python care, and if you would rather keep a vegetarian grazer, read tortoise care. If you are interested in working with exotic pets, our guide to how to become a veterinary assistant explains the training path.